I had heard great things about Copenhagen, but it was not on our immediate radar of places to visit. We had just returned from our trip to Morocco, and had a bit of withdrawal, so I kept thinking about where we could go next. Since we didn’t have many vacation days left, we had to focus on one main city instead of an entire country. Ironically not long after, a kids fly free deal for Scandinavian Airlines caught my attention. With Copenhagen being one of the options of places to go, we thought why not? We chose to go over Thanksgiving holiday to gain a few extra days. I’m now delighted to have made such a spur of the moment decision.
We had 5 full days in Copenhagen, not counting travel time. Our style is to pack it all in, so I had high hopes to see everything. It didn’t go fully as planned so I’m going to share our actual itinerary of what we realistically were able to do given energy level and travel with a toddler.
Our short time here also included a brief escape to Bornholm, a little island that is geographically closer to Sweden, but still a part of Denmark. You can choose to either include this or not, and we will also give suggestions on alternate options instead. It truly was a highlight and something we’d like to explore deeper on a return trip.
Note: We use affiliate links in this post. This helps us to continue providing great content. For more info you can read our full disclosure here.
In This Article
When to Go to Copenhagen
Is the Copenhagen Card Worth It?
Christiansborg Palace, Walking Tour, and Christmas Markets
Bornholm Island
Tivoli Gardens
Frederiksborg Castle
Walking Tour and Danish Christmas Lunch
Head Back Home
Deciding when to go to Copenhagen depends on the type of experience you want to have. If you’re into doing more outdoors, visiting Legoland and having a full range of activities then visiting during Spring or Summer is best. Definitely go during Fall or Winter if you prefer less crowds. If you want the full festive holiday experience, visiting during November or December is ideal.
We happened to be there towards end of November and absolutely loved being able to see all the Christmas markets and experience the cozy hygge feeling everywhere. It was also magical being able to see Christmas at Tivoli, an experience everyone should have at least once. Overall, anytime is great to visit Copenhagen, or better yet go back during a different season and have a completely different trip.
I had heard of the Copenhagen Card for tourists, but wasn’t sure if it was worth buying. After calculating the actual sites we had planned to see with our time, we decided not to get one. Unless you plan to pack in a lot of sites, it may be cheaper not to buy one. Since most of our days were spent walking and exploring, it wasn’t cost-efficient for us. They have a handy calculator on their site, however I did the math on my own based on looking up all the individual costs.
The card is only worth it if you plan to pack in a lot of places per day. However, there are things that can go wrong or happen during the trip. Alternatively, you may want to purchase a 24 hour all zone ticket or Citypass, which you can find more info about here.
This itinerary works well for those who arrive in Copenhagen in the early morning. Getting through immigration was very quick. It was pretty easy to figure out the train into the city. We had a full day ahead to explore, however we were exhausted from travel and running on very little sleep, so our energy was limited. Our hotel check-in was not until 3pm, but we headed there first to place our luggage in the lockers available there.
I had kept the day pretty open, but listed areas of interest to see. You can choose to follow this, or alter to your liking. Instead of strictly following the list, we decided to just start walking and see where it would take us.
Local Tour
Exploring with a local is the best way to experience a new place. This Copenhagen Welcome Tour is the perfect introduction to the city so you can explore with confidence on your own.
I searched on Yelp for some nearby cafes since we were pretty hungry and found one called Next Door Cafe, located in the Indre By neighborhood. It got great reviews, so we decided to give it a try.
The cafe looked so cute from the outside, and the owners were so friendly and welcoming. We also loved how casual it was. You’ll feel so comfortable in the dimly lit interior. We ordered an omelet and pancakes and both were so delicious. It was quite small and cozy and never got too crowded while we were there, perhaps because it was a weekday. Definitely a nice introduction to Denmark, we highly recommend it as a breakfast/brunch option while here.
After eating we decided to head to Christiansborg Palace. With a 10am opening time, it was perfect timing to explore for a few hours then move onto other sites. We opted to see the Royal Reception rooms to keep more of the day open for other things. Our total time here was around 1-2 hours, so allow at least that to explore.
Before starting your tour, you’ll have to put on foot coverings to keep the floors clean. The entire palace on the inside is beautiful, and there were special Christmas tables on display since it was the holiday season. I absolutely love palaces and castles, so it was quite a delight seeing the exquisite and ornate interiors. The decor was so rich and elegant, with incredible detail!
One of my favorite rooms was the Queen’s Library, which contains a private collection of books. It was so gold and luxurious, with beautiful blue furniture accents. Terra especially loved the Throne Room and kept asking where can she find the queen! The Dining Hall was also quite interesting, I can’t imagine how cool it would be to be part of such a grand dinner!
Upon exiting you’ll remove the foot coverings. There’s also a souvenir shop if you’re interested in grabbing some things. It’s definitely worth the visit and so lovely seeing a part of Danish history!
Once we finished touring the castle, we walked over the Højbro Plads which was literally right across the street. You can easily spot it by the large Absalon equestrian statue displayed right in the entrance. We stumbled upon the holiday market here, which was such a nice surprise! There were a lot of cute shops, with wonderful smells of food and sweets in the air. We stopped to try a sausage and it was so delicious! It was one of our must-try foods here and a perfect opportunity to grab a snack!
See a full list: Copenhagen Christmas Market Guide.
Next to Højbro Plads is Amagertorv also known as Amalger Square. At the entrance is the famous Stork Fountain, a lovely photo opportunity. This is the heart of Strøget, the famous shopping street and one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe. We walked and explored a great deal of it, and noticed a mixture of both budget and luxury shops. Due to limited time here we decided not to shop much, but there was a lot to see. We definitely made sure to stop at Flying Tiger Copenhagen, since we fell in love with the store in NYC.
During our stroll along Strøget, we also stopped at Lagkagehuset for a kanelsnegle, the Danish version of a cinnamon roll. Such buttery and cinnamon goodness! Here’s a list of more great bakeries to check out while in Copenhagen.
We walked until we finally reached City Hall, and stopped by the Dragon Fountain for some photos. While exploring we also walked past Tivoli and it was nice to see the holiday decor during the day. Since we had plans to spend the day here later in our trip, it was nice to get a view of it during daytime hours.
Torvehallerne is a treasure trove of great eats in Copenhagen. There’s so much to choose from and you can even grab some edible souvenirs to bring back home. It consists of two separate halls and in the center is an outdoor market with fresh produce and other items.
With a plethora of options, it was tough deciding what to eat. In the end we chose Hallernes Smørrebrød and grabbed a few options of smørrebrød to share. We wanted to at least try it once, so this was our chance. Another place worth trying here is Grød, for some delicious Danish porridge. We also noticed a smoothie place with healthy options.
Let’s be honest, hotel accommodation in Copenhagen isn’t cheap, so we chose a hostel option. But after our stay at Steelhouse Copenhagen, I must say, the hostels here are a great choice, and have everything you need. They had lockers for storage, laundry facilities, a kitchen, several lounge areas and just an overall community vibe. There were snacks and drinks available for purchase, which was very convenient as we headed out for a fully packed day.
We booked the twin room for 4 people. It was still quite small, but perfect for what we needed. The beds were surprisingly very comfortable and cozy, and the shower was always hot and functional with plenty of towels provided. We truly enjoyed our stay here and you’ll find it to be a great economical choice during your visit.
Once we checked in, we decided to take a moment to rest. We probably could have squeezed in another neighborhood to check out, but with sunset starting before 4pm, we didn’t have much daylight left. Taking a moment to recharge is just what you need sometimes!
See more: Hotels in Copenhagen
It was our top priority to see all the Christmas markets during our visit, especially since they are seasonal. Nyhavn and Kongens Nytorv are two of the bigger markets located conveniently next to each other. We hadn’t actually seen Nyhavn yet, so we decided to head there first. It was quite easy to get to, just a few stops from our hostel and a 5 minute walk from the station.
The market at Nyhavn was absolutely beautiful. You’ll be in awe from all of the lights, adorable festive shops, and smells of spices in the air. The restaurants along the canal were all adorned with holiday decor. The hygge feeling was definitely alive here! There were blankets, table lamps and fires going in the outdoor seating areas of the eateries. We tried gløgg for the first time, which is a mulled red wine served with spices, raisins, and sliced almonds. All the goodies at the bottom soaked up all the flavors and it was such a treat! Seeing all the holiday lights reflected on the water was a heartwarming sight.
Kongens Nytorv also called the King’s Square, is one of the main areas in the city. The stunning D’Angleterre Hotel and the equestrian statue of Christian V are situated here. There’s also a plentitude of shops and street foods to try. We decided to have dinner here and munched on some Pork Goulash and pommes frites, along with mini pancakes topped with nutella for dessert. It was all warm and hearty, perfect for a cold winter night.
I wanted to see an area beyond Copenhagen even though we had such little time in Denmark. Some possible options were Aarhus, Odense, Aero Island or Bornholm. I instinctively went with Bornholm and wow what a discovery. I had never heard of this island before, but found it through travel research. Since it was off season there weren’t many hotels open, so we opted for Airbnb called Svaneke Guesthaus.
The guesthouse was such a delight and the owners treated us like family. We had a private room within the top floor of the house with access to a common guest area. Since nobody else was there we had this all to ourselves.
Getting here was fairly easy, but took a bit of work and research. The ferry is located in Ystad, Sweden. You can either rent a car and drive, take the train, or do a bus/ferry combo which we found to be the easiest option. I booked the tickets in advance through Bornholmerbussen. The site is in Danish, so you may need to use a translator. The bus leaves from directly in front of Copenhagen Hotel Plaza. To maximize time go with the 6:45am departure, with arrival to the island around 9:30am.
In order to get around the island you’ll need a car. There are buses, but they don’t come often and it will limit your schedule. We had a great experience with Europcar, located right by the ferry port in Rønne. There are only manual cars available though, so if you need automatic you’ll have to rent elsewhere.
The island is quite small and you can drive the perimeter in about 3-4 hours. Dubbed the “Sunny Island” it’s typically very sunny, however we experienced overcast skies during our stay. Since we only had a day here, we chose just a few select sites and saved the rest for another trip.
There are villages on the water around the perimeter of the island, with some sites in the middle. For this trip we focused on the northern part of the island, since the south is more known for its beaches. During our short stay, we stopped at Allinge, Gudhjem, Hammershus Castle Ruins, Osterlars Round Church and Svaneke. In order to enjoy the island in its entirety you need at least 3-4 nights here. We plan to go back during summer for a longer trip.
Since it was off-season there weren’t many restaurants open. Our guesthouse hosts kindly offered to book us a table at Svaneke Bryghus, conveniently located near our airbnb. It was a nice stroll through the village to get there and allowed us to see the main square. They had a great selection of food to choose from and every entree included the salad bar, with fresh and healthy options. With it being a microbrewery, there was a fantastic array of craft beers available. The food was pricey, but delicious. It’s definitely a solid option in this area.
Explore more: Getaway Guide to Bornholm Island
Alternate Option
If you choose not to visit Bornholm, you can spend another day touring Copenhagen. You can explore Norrebro and check out Assistens Cemetary, Superkilen Park and admire the beautiful facades. For other day trip options, you can explore Roskilde, Odense, Egeskov Castle, Møns Klint, or a guided tour of Lund and Malmo, Sweden.
Before taking the ferry we had time explore Svaneke and take some photos. We also stopped at Osterlars Round Church since it was on the drive back to Rønne. We then took the same ferry and bus back to Copenhagen. They run only every four hours, so with plans for Tivoli later in the day the 10:30am ferry is the best option. This will get you back to Copenhagen around 1:30pm with time for lunch and relaxation. For more photos and info on our Bornholm getaway, check out our mini guide to Bornholm Island.
I typically like to book at least a few different places to stay during our trips. For the remainder of our trip I chose Urban House Copenhagen, another hip hostel with an excellent location. It was about a 3 minute walk to Copenhagen Central Station, a hub that allowed us ease of travel in the city and beyond.
It was a lot more lively and busy here. They had lockers for storage and a digital check-in process. We also spotted a bar here with a few food options for both breakfast and dinner along with some snacks and drinks for purchase.
The room was quite large, and we had 4 bunk beds along with a double bed. It was nice to spread out and have some extra space with a longer stay. We noticed plenty of towels available and everything was very clean.
After a brief search for food near the hostel I found Mother, about a 10 minute walk away. When we arrived it was slightly crowded, but not too bad. There was a lunch buffet happening with an hour left to go, so we got there just in time.
If you love Italian food like me, then you’ll be in heaven here. There was pizza and several other Italian dishes and salads, as well as cheese with various bread and baked goods. We tried a little bit of everything and we loved the salads the most. Being used to amazing pizza in NYC, we weren’t too impressed with it. It was definitely pricey for what we got, so if you’re in the area it’s worth a try, but don’t make a special trip for it.
A trip to Copenhagen isn’t complete without visiting Tivoli Gardens, one of the oldest amusement parks in the world. It’s also inspiration for Walt Disney World, another classic theme park for people of all ages. We were lucky to experience Christmas at Tivoli, a magical and incredible experience you must have at least once in your lifetime.
If you have a Tivoli card, the entrance fee is free, however you’ll still have to pay for rides. If you’re going to ride more than 3-4 rides then definitely go with the Unlimited Ride Pass. They also have a Companion pass for those who are just riding with younger children not able to ride on their own.
The lines into the park were not too long, in fact it took no more than 10 minutes to get in. Once inside it was pretty crowded, but we were still able to move around comfortably. Certain rides had a longer wait time than others, specifically the Balloon ride and the Carousel.
The decor was absolutely stunning and it felt like a winter wonderland. We loved browsing the Christmas markets, and there was plenty of glogg, hot cocoa, and food available for purchase. The Christmas tree was stunning and we even saw a train moving around it. Terra was in awe with all the lights and festive feel in the air.
Explore more: Christmas at Tivoli Gardens.
In order to have a break from the cold I booked a table at Grøften well in advance. I was excited to try the traditional Danish fare served here. The entrance was quite lovely and adorned with holiday decor. We were welcomed with a warm greeting and seated in a more quiet area of the Mellemhaven section, which I had chosen while booking.
I absolutely loved the vibe inside, there were Christmas balloons hanging from the ceiling filled with little animals. The area was lit mostly by candles and holiday lights. We definitely felt the hygge with sounds of laughter, joy and chatter. Service was fantastic and the food was quite delicious. We noticed a traditional Christmas menu available, but since we had one booked for the following day we chose other options. Definitely make sure to try the traditional Danish dessert, rice pudding with cherries (so delicious!) Our time here was truly warm and enjoyable and we highly recommend it while you’re at Tivoli.
We decided to sleep in and recharge for a busy day ahead. This meant that we only had time to see Frederiksborg Castle, located in the charming town of Hillerød. We grabbed some breakfast at the 7-11 in the station before boarding the train. They are quite different in Denmark compared to America. Who know 7-11 could have such healthy and delicious options? We practically lived on the yogurts and bread for breakfast everyday.
We purchased an All Day Zone pass from the red billeter machine in Copenhagen Central Station. It’s under the Tourist option on the screen. You then take the S-Train to Hillerød, which runs every 10 minutes or so. The train ride there is about 45 minutes with a 20 minute walk to the castle. You should definitely take time to walk through the village as it’s quite beautiful, and allows you to see another part of Denmark.
Optional Add-On
If you decide to leave earlier in the morning you can also go to Louisiana Museum, a gorgeous modern art museum located on the coast. Or you could choose to do a Copenhagen Day Tour which includes Roskilde, Frederiksborg and Kronborg Castle.
During our stroll through Hillerød we stumbled upon a small Christmas market. The gorgeous castle was a lovely backdrop behind the picturesque stalls. The buildings were all so cute and quaint. It was definitely a nice quiet break from the city. In the same square was an adorable windmill, with various shops and restaurants surrounding. We perused the market for a bit before heading on our way.
Frederiksborg Castle was built by King Christian IV in the 17th century. It has since been restored after suffering from a fire in 1859. The Renaissance charm definitely shined through here.
We walked along a serene lake filled with ducks as we approached the castle. It was seriously straight out of a fairytale! The path was lined with willow trees and the castle occasionally peeked through as you got closer. When we finally reached the entrance we were in awe! It was truly magnificent and quite a sight to see.
Because we woke up late we didn’t have much time to ohh and ahh at everything. The entrance was quite grand and in the front was a large fountain. We didn’t spent too much time outside since we were dying to take a tour of the inside, but there’s much to explore here.
The Museum tour depicts 500 years of Danish history through furniture, art, portraits and paintings. We were enamored with how elaborate and detailed each room was. It truly showed the ever-changing styles throughout the years and made us feel as if we we in that era. You’ll love seeing how royalty lived throughout history.
One of my favorite rooms was Chapel, overflowing with gold details and natural light. We must have spent at least 20 minutes in this room exploring and gawking at all its glory. I especially loved seeing the organ and piano up close, both located on each end. You’ll fall in love with every inch of this space.
The Audience Chamber was another highlight. We walked through a beautiful hallway to get there. I was in awe over the gorgeous stucco ceiling covered with paintings, and the grand chandelier. Even the furniture complemented nicely in the space, every detail was considered during restoration.
You should definitely take an inside tour of the castle and get a feel for Danish history. It was fascinating to get a glimpse of how life was during these years, and what it must have been like to live there.
We toured the gardens surrounding the castle last, since the inside was only open until 3pm. It was perfect timing because sunset was starting and it meant for magical fairytale views of the castle. What better than to see a glorious castle at sunset? I took this pretty seriously and spent quite a bit of time getting some shots of this prime moment.
Since it was winter we didn’t see the garden in full bloom, but it was still very beautiful. You should at least take a brief tour here after seeing the inside. You can also exit here to head back to the train station.
See more: Magical Castles in Denmark
We had grand plans for dinner, but they never actually happened. You see I wanted to check out Reffen Street Food, but I guess I should have researched more deeply on their opening hours.
We actually travelled all the way there and knew something was up when the area was rather deserted. I was slightly creeped out walking through darkness and industrial warehouses (something I would never attempt in NYC!) When we finally got there, we saw deserted food booths, holiday lights, picnic tables, and a huge sign that said Reffen. It looked extremely cool and we were bummed to have missed it. Definitely check it out and pay attention to their hours! I later learned that they close at 6pm on Sunday, and we got there around 7pm, oops!
We noticed something at the bus stop that made us smile through all the disappointment. There was a box with a sign that said “Leftover bread, take some home!” It showed just how truly kind and trusting the Danish are. I definitely wouldn’t touch that bread if I saw that locally.
After our planned dinner fail, I must admit when we got back to Urban House, laziness set in. So we decided to eat right at our hostel. Ironic considering I was hesitant to even go out for dinner, ha!
Being the last day in Copenhagen I wanted to maximize all that we could see. I knew we couldn’t fit everything on the list, but that just means we save more for another trip! We explored most of the main sites in the city center and they were all conveniently close to each other.
The first stop on our tour was the Round Tower during the walking tour, also known as Rundetaarn. It’s one of the oldest functioning observatories in Europe and was built in the 17th century. We walked the long spiral path to the top, which made for some cool photos. When we finally reached the top, it made for an incredible 360 degree view of the city. It was nice to see the city waking up to the morning light.
Once we finished at the Round Tower, we walked about ten minutes straight over to Rosenborg Castle. We couldn’t go inside since it’s closed on Monday. Exploring the Kings Garden and seeing it from the outside is still worth it. I imagine the gardens are not as lush as it is during spring and summer, but it was still a delight to see. The outside of the castle itself is a beauty!
After we finished exploring Rosenborg, we walked back to Nørreport station and took the train to Østerport station. Nearby is Kastellet located about 5 minutes from the station. We only had time to explore the parks around the windmill. It was a nice and peaceful stroll with beautiful views. If you have more time here you should definitely walk up to the windmill and explore the barracks.
It took ten minutes to get to Amalienborg Palace from Kastellet. We made it just in time for the changing of the guards, which typically occurs around 12pm. It was quite funny to see a crowd of people following the guards around in hopes to get a great shot. I hadn’t originally planned on seeing this event, but it was a happy accident. It makes for some lovely photo opportunities and a unique experience!
On our first day in Copenhagen we had seen Nyhavn at night, but still had hopes to see it during the day. We decided to walk there from the palace. We spent around 30 minutes browsing and shopping for a few souvenirs, then took some photos of the classic view. As many photos I’ve seen of this place, it’s quite amazing to see in person. The colorful building facades reflected so beautifully on the water and we loved seeing all the ships docked here.
By now we were pretty hungry, but wanted something quick and convenient. We walked over to Kongens Nytorv Christmas Market for some hotdogs and waffles. Coming back here allowed us to browse a bit more and grab some last minute souvenirs. It may have been our second visit here, but I never get tired of the Christmas markets!
With the sun setting so early, we could only fit in one more area. We chose to see Freetown Christiania since it was vastly different from everything else we’ve seen so far. It took about 15 minutes to get to by bus from Kongens Nytorv area. From there we had to walk into the complex to explore by foot.
Freetown Christiania is essentially a vibrant hippie community bursting with creativity. It contains unique houses filled with funky art, graffiti and self expression. We noticed a lot of cafes and galleries, and even a horse stable. I’m quite fascinated by the alternative culture of it and the concept of “free rule.” The 900 or so people who live here don’t have to pay taxes and are essentially self-sufficient. It’s a car-free zone, so bikes or walking is a must.
“Pusher Street,” is a famous area within known for it’s sale of hash. We were told “no photos” at the entrance, so I have none to show from here. But it will definitely live on in my memory. We walked past the vendors selling various marijuana products with our toddler in tow. The street was also lined with bright red lanterns, flags, and surrounded by bright urban art.
We were amazed to take a brief tour of this place and witness a small community of people thriving on their own. We felt some creepy vibes at times with handwritten messages on wooden boards, decrepit structures, and rustic pathways. I appreciated all the art and creativity here, you can tell the residents have a certain pride here. I’m not sure I would explore it at night, but it seemed most lively in late afternoon.
Julefrokost also known as Danish Christmas Lunch is an elaborate party celebrated by either friends, colleagues or family. Although it’s called lunch, it’s technically more so a dinner. There is a lot of talking, laughing, eating and drinking like most parties. Sometimes it ends in dancing and games. I booked this experience at Restaurant Kronborg with the full menu and info here. It’s one of the highly rated restaurants for this event, so it doesn’t come cheap, but it’s an experience you’ll never forget!
We were truly looking forward to this holiday celebration. The affair consisted of many small plates of traditional Danish food. We first had bread with butter and duck lard. We were then served our first course of fish consisting of 3 different types of pickled herring, followed by fried fish, and smoked salmon with eggs. The flavors were magnificent and filled with mixtures of sweet, salty and sour.
After the fish course we were served the meats. First there was duck, liver paté with bacon and mushrooms, and pan-fried pork. This was followed by pork roast and sausage with pickled cabbage and other side complements.
By now we were quite full, but still had a few courses left. We had various cheeses with fruits and crackers, ending with a rich dessert of rice pudding with almonds and cherry sauce. At the end of the meal the person who found the whole almond got a “prize.” It was such a joyful dining experience that lasted a few hours. Everything was delicious and I always looked forward to the next dish. If you’re in Copenhagen around the holidays, don’t miss out on this festive event.
With full and satisfied bellies, we headed back to the hostel for one final night of sleep here. The last night is always so bittersweet, reflecting on your memories there and also dreading the trip back home.
Since our flight was in the morning, we couldn’t fit in any more sites. We had an easy train ride to the airport and through immigration. There’s a lot of shops here for some last-minute souvenirs.
We hope you enjoyed our 5 day guide on what to do in Copenhagen. It’s a lovely city to visit, even during the winter! The Christmas spirit is truly alive here during the holidays and made our visit so magical. We look forward to returning during summer season.
Have you ever been to Copenhagen? If so, what other things did you do?
Show us some love and pin for later!
The beauty of Porto, Portugal will remain ingrained in my memory. The sounds of music…
Exploring a country by car is the best way to see it all. I have…
There are so many wonderful places to visit in Portugal, and Obidos is one you…
I still remember it vividly as we approached Monsanto, Portugal after driving through vineyards, and…
Sintra Portugal is what fairytales are made of. Stunning greenery, charming cobblestone streets, ornate palaces,…
We spent 3 days in Lisbon as part of a ten day journey in Portugal.…
This website uses cookies.
View Comments
I really enjoyed reading this article Christie. We haven't been to Copenhagen but it is definitely on my list now. The Christmas markets look and sound amazing and the Palace is spectacular.
Thanks Wendy! So glad you enjoyed it. It was magical around the holidays, never would have thought but it's a hidden gem around that time. Feel free to ask for any tips when you go!
Thank you for sharing. Got some great tips from here :)